![]() ![]() 030 p-b string might be the equivalent of an. In my personal opinion, phosphor bronze is slightly denser than 80/20 so, for example, an. electric -w/ magnetic pickup- that's a totally different topic.). That's why August suggested simply ordering single strings in whatever size you might think appropriate, which in bulk should cost less.ġa) Yes, there are differences in string windings (80/20, phosphor bronze, more recently nickel, etc.) and coatings, or lack thereof, but little about them are relative to a type of instrument. Just because a manufacturer puts strings together in a "set" doesn't mean that such a set will work for you. Even that last one - not so much as lots of mandolin strings would fit on guitars. twisted loop), print on the packaging, and the length to which they're cut. Any "magic" is in the type of end (ball vs. 1) As a grand generality: "Steel" strings themselves, as opposed to nylon, have little idea what instrument they'll be installed on. Īlso wondering what I can do to ensure the mandolin being "well-humidified" means. Never heard a mandolin stringed with banjo strings. Often I'll go up a little bit at a time, searching for the ideal tension that gets the best performance without over-stressing and dampening the top. My preference is to start off light (perhaps. If it's difficult to get the instrument all the way up to pitch, don't force it!Īnd it can't be said too often: quality mandolins were built more lightly 100 years ago than most are today, so they need lighter strings by today's standards. You can get a feel for how the instrument is performing, without fully stressing the top and neck. Starting with lower tension by tuning down a half-step or a step is a pretty good idea, imho. Believe me, I've learned this one the hard way - you want to make sure your mandolin has been in a well-humidified (~45%) environment for a few weeks, before stressing the top. Sometimes you'll see old instruments that are in fine shape, until you start stressing them with string pressure. Maybe it will take 20 or 80 years, but sooner or later there's a breaking point where old wood will split if there's not enough moisture to maintain its flexibility under stress. Up here in the USA, old mandolins often sit around, unhumidified and drying out a little more each winter. If that "CR" in your location means Costa Rica, I'm going to guess you're in a warm, humid climate, so probably there's no concern there. Hoping for better solutions, but so far I'm piecing together sets from single strings.Īlso wondering what I can do to ensure the mandolin being "well-humidified" means, and if tuning to a lower octave for a few days or weeks before trying with the correct tension might help?[ I know one bowlback player who makes his own strings. So what to use? I've talked to several string makers about this dilemma, so far without success. There's also the problem that since the Dogal Calace strings they have a smaller diameter, they cause fret wear quickly - especially on those tiny frets typical of the old Italian mandolins. Dogal Calace are high-tension strings by nature, designed for the modern Calace mandolin-thus the "soft tension" version may still be too much for antique instruments, which were generally designed for lower tension. ![]() Some will recommend the Dogal Calace RW92B, soft tension, but although I like these and have used these often on my modern concert mandolin, they're probably still too much tension for some old mandolins, especially an Italian like yours (which are often even more fragile than the American bowlbacks). Optima Lenzner Consort strings are made for this purpose (antique mandolins), so that's one option. For me, I'd much prefer a nickel-wound string for this kind of instrument. The GHS extra-light A240 strings (09, 13, 20, 32) are OK, but to me, not ideal - the material is phosphor bronze, which didn't exist when this mandolin was made, and probably sounds different and carries a bit more string tension than what they had back then. But string gauge is not the only factor, since material and construction also play a role. The strings you mention (.09, 13, 22, 34) sound just a little heavy on the bass side, I generally wouldn't go higher than (09, 13, 21, 32). There aren't many choices for appropriate strings, at least not yet. I also wouldn't play it until my technician has looked it over thoroughly, for structural problems. So please make sure it's been well-humidified before putting any string tension. ![]() When old mandolins start being played again is when they're most vulnerable to cracks. ![]()
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